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Posted by HeatPro on November 30, 2005 at 16:12:13:
In Reply to: Re: To HeatPro and Joe Brix posted by Dave on November 30, 2005 at 15:02:32:
: OK. I will order the RJS080, which is their 80 gallon tank. It has a 2" hot water outlet at the top and two 2" connections on the lower side, as well as a 3/4" drain and a 1" T&P port near the top.
+++ The top also has a tapping for an air eliminator and expansion tank.
: I guess the hot boiler water would be piped into one of the lower 2" connections and then exit out the 2" connection at the top. Then we would just cap the other 2" connection as well as the 1" T&P port?
+++ As you are not really trying to even the water in the tank, you might do better to take the cooler water off the bottom of the tank to the boiler to give it the cooler water to heat.
: It will take awhile to get the tank, and the plumber really wants to redo the primary loop first, so what we were thinking was he would pipe 2 2" tees into the boiler outflow pipe with a shutoff valve between. The tees would be capped until we get the storage tank. Then he would pipe in the tank to those tees, and we would turn off the shutoff so the boiler water would be forced to go through the tank. Does that all sound OK?
+++ It isn't the neatest with its twists and turns, leaves valves for others to play with mistakenly later; but it would ease the process for the plumber.
For several reasons; I prefer that the plumber follow the factory piping arrangement available at:
http://www.lochinvar.com/product.asp?cat=ACC&cls=ALL&prod=RVU120&ln=BT#
It uses the best of John Siegenthaler's conceptual purpose with the zoned system off the larger ports.
Leaving the piping as is would be a solution to shoehorn an electric storage tank with its small ports into the piping you now have; but using the factory tank enables a much cleaner installation.