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Re: HB Smith "Century" Gas Boiler - burners not staying lit


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Posted by HeatPro on September 07, 2005 at 14:02:42:

In Reply to: HB Smith "Century" Gas Boiler - burners not staying lit posted by Stephen on September 07, 2005 at 00:17:59:

The answer is "to get the burner to get back to normal." That is the work of a trained gas tech. You might not have to call the tech if you have the time to take the course and get the tools and knowledge he developed.

http://www.toad.net/~jsmeenen/gassystem.html
http://www.notanks.com/lowenergysystems/paloma_techsup.html
http://www.southsoundpillar2post.com/InfoSeries/info14.pdf
http://www.toad.net/~jsmeenen/gasvalve.html

1. Turn knob on heater to off and wait 5-10 minutes and turn the temperature down to low.
2. Open Inspection cover (there should be 2) at the bottom of the unit.
3. Get a long match or a dripless candle works good
4. Turn the knob on the heater to Pilot and push down
5. While pushing down, light the pilot inside the inspection cover. Follow the small tube from the Knob area down into the inspection cover area at the end is where you light the pilot.
6. Once the pilot is lit, continue to hold the knob down for approx 1 minute.
7. Release the knob and turn to on and set the temperature setting back.
8. Replace the inspection covers.

http://www.surplussales.com/Meters/MtrDCVoltsmain.html
http://www.mobile-mart.com/thrmcpltstr.htm
http://www.white-rodgers.com/pdfs/catalog/WRPDF084.pdf
http://www.web-tronics.com/fluk16dmmwit.html
http://tanksavers.com/html/body_page_6.html
http://www.meeder.com/cat44.pdf
http://www.riwinc.com/Logs/PDF/spk3f.pdf

Thermocouples 30-60 millivolts static 15-45 millivolts working most valves will hold down to 6-8 Millivolts
Thermopile 300-600 millivolts static 200-450 working less that 150 and most valves will not hold
Pile coming from piles of thermocouples (about ten in one head)

As most argumentative DIY's say; it isn't rocket science; but then is anything but ... rocket science?

One important point with a thermocouple is to thread the round button end of the thermocouple into the gas valve with the fingers. If it isn't going into the hole the old one went into easily, then you are trying to fight the threads at an odd angle. Once you get the end to seat with the fingers and gently snug the end with a wrench, tighten it further 1/8th to 1/4 turn. You are just trying to make an electrical connection there; not tighten a pipe. More, and the end can distort and posssibly break the gas valve. The stuff before that is pretty much replacing the thermocouple just as you see the old one that is on it now.

well it may or may not be the thermocouple below is just some of what it could be.
1)Pilot flame
first you need to check that the pilot is on(lit)has it a correct size and flame pattern and is playing the thermocouple in the right place there is a hot and a cold spot on a thermocouple and it will not work if the cold spot is heated or the hot spot cold
2)Thermocouple may not be given right voltage
3)magnetic valve faulty
4)contacts could be dirty stoping voltage
5)interlock like The E.C.O. may have failed or operated
6)pilot flame may blow out from the main burner lighting or turning off (pilot in wrong place)
7,8,9....... and so on and on




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